Field Notes – February Iqaluit trip

To better prepare for my Master’s thesis research, I came to Iqaluit for a five day consultation trip. Graham McDowell, a fellow member of the Climate Change Vulnerability and Adaptation Research Group, also came to further his involvement with the Iqaluit Land Use Mapping Project (ILMP). Graham planned to go “on the land” with two local Inuuk, Levi and Anu, and I was fortunate enough to be invited on the trip.

We left Iqaluit in the early afternoon of February 22. The weather conditions were not forecasted to be ideal, with predicted temperatures of -23°C with -35°C wind chill, winds of 37km with 46km gusts, as well as drifting snow. On the sea ice of Frobisher Bay, we had blue skies above and clear visibility ahead. Our destination was one of the smaller bays located northwest of Iqaluit.

Before we left, Levi had checked the internet to assess the current ice conditions. He had noticed that the sea ice was not completely frozen, so we would have to take an alternative land route instead. It appears as though modern technology has proven to be complementary to Inuit Qaujimajatuqangit (IQ), otherwise known as traditional Inuit knowledge.

The land route was more challenging than the traditional sea ice route due to exposed rocks, more undulating topography, and lower visibility. While we could have used our handheld GPS units for navigation, they were not necessary due to Levi’s vast knowledge of the area. He has been independently exploring the area surrounding Iqaluit since he was only ten years old, and refers to these lands as his backyard.

We encountered only one issue in terms of dangerous ice conditions. We tried crossing a small stream that is typically frozen at this time of year; however, the ice had not yet fully formed. My boot went through the thin veneer, as did the boots of the men. Luckily, we were close to stable ground and were not negatively impacted by this hazard.

This incredible experience furthered my appreciation for the Inuit who live so closely with the land. Though most of the sea ice was stable, areas where the ocean had not fully frozen limited the use of traditional ice routes. This resulted in a more difficult route with demanding terrain and further distances. This trip emphasized the unique and dynamic interaction between the remote Arctic terrain and the Inuit who rely heavily on it.